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Marseille is France's oldest city.
And when it comes to statistics, it's
also one of Europe's most dangerous.
I'll show you its postcard
moments and also its contradictions.
For some Marseille
is the epitome of sunshine
and the Mediterranean lifestyle.
While others think of
negative headlines related to crime.
How safe is it?
And what should you go see?
Marseille is not the kind of city
that waits politely to be discovered.
It throws you in all at once.
So let's go explore Marseille in a day.
With just under 900,000 inhabitants,
Marseille is the second largest city in France.
It's located in Provence,
directly on the Mediterranean Sea.
I start my day at the
Vieux Port, the old port.
This is where the city was
founded more than 2,600 years ago.
Ever since, Marseille has been a trading hub
and a place where people meet.
And the Vieux Port
is still the heart of the city.
Fishers sell their catch here every morning.
And morning is also the best time
to experience the harbour atmosphere as a visitor.
Over the years,
the harbor district has increasingly
become a cultural hub.
The Mucem, the Museum of
Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean,
is a good place to start
if you want to learn more about
the history of the region.
You can also access the
roof terrace and other viewpoints
around the building for free.
Even if you don't have time to go to
a museum and spend hours there,
just coming here for the views
and the architecture is worth it.
The Marché de Noailles market
is just a few minutes walk from the port.
Here you can discover
vegetables from Provence and
ingredients from all over the world,
including North African snacks.
Marseille is a melting pot of different cultures.
For centuries, immigrants
from all over the world
have been drawn to the port city.
To fully appreciate Marseille, you have to climb.
Notre-Dame de la Garde
is 149 metres above sea level
and is one of the most popular attractions.
The locals call the church
"La bonne mére", the good mother,
because she watches over the city.
The golden statue of Virgin Mary on
the basilica is currently covered for
construction, but can usually
be seen from all over the city.
What a nice breeze.
And this has got to be the most spectacular view
you can get of Marseille.
Down in the Le Panier district, things get colourful.
Marseille's oldest neighborhood
used to be a classic
working class district.
Today it's quite trendy
with small shops and bars.
Mediterranean lifestyle.
Be sure to check out the many murals,
some funny and some political.
In Le Panier, many facades have
been transformed into works of art.
If you have a little more time,
it's worth taking a street art tour.
So far I've had a look at the
postcard version of Marseille.
I didn't feel unsafe.
The city owes its dangerous reputation above all
to the Quartiers Nord, the northern districts.
They're home to around
a third of the city's residents.
The neighborhoods are often in the headlines
for drug- and gang-related crimes, even shootings.
The city marketing department is
specifically promoting areas that
tourists have previously ignored.
I want to see for myself and see if
it's worth taking a trip to some of
the lesser known areas in the north.
This isn't the Marseille you see in
travel ads, but there are also places
here that are historic, creative, and
welcoming if you take the time to
look beyond the headlines.
You will find one of the cities
most unusual cultural projects here
in a former industrial complex,
the Cité des arts de la rue.
Since 1995, artists here have been
working on projects involving street art,
theater, circus and
performances for public spaces.
You can also take part
in workshops at the Cité.
And there's something else
you absolutely can't miss.
A forgotten forest in the middle of the city!
Back in the 19th century, the citiy's bourgeoisie
often went on outings here.
Local initiatives have been working
since 2016 to revitalize the area.
The highlight is the Cascade des Aygalades,
a nine-meter-high waterfall.
In the north of Marseille you will
also find the Savonnerie du Midi,
which has produced the
famous Marseille soap since 1894.
In the 19th century, Marseille
was a soap-making stronghold
with dozens of factories.
Camille Tricaud from the factory
shows me soaps that are over 100 years old.
Back in the day, the soap makers
used stamps with different images
to mark their soaps.
And people who couldn't read
could still buy their favorite soap
and know who it was made by.
The soap boilers produced
traditional soap in copper kettles
using only olive or palm oil,
water, caustic soda and salt.
The soap master uses
his tongue to test whether
the saponification process is working correctly.
So I'll try.
Yeah, it's a bit like a
burning sensation on the tongue.
If you want to see the soap being made,
you have to come in the morning.
The visit to the factory
and the soap museum is free,
but you should make a reservation.
Now I head back to the center,
to Cours Julien, Marseille's trendy district.
There used to be a vegetable market here,
but now it's mainly restaurants and bars.
A day in Marseille wouldn't
be complete without an apéro:
That's a drink, some salted
snacks and just enough time to
do absolutely nothing.
These panisses,
they're chickpea fritters
and a specialty from Marseille.
And I'm trying them for the first time.
They're soft on the inside and have herbs.
And they're served with aioli,
a garlic mayonnaise.
This ritual in the South of France
takes place in the late afternoon,
traditionally with pastis —
an aniseed-flavored spirit,
which was invented in Marseille.
That's how locals and visitors like
to unwind at the end of the day.
Marseille isn't always polished, but it's real.
And I did feel safe.
At least it didn't feel more
dangerous than any other big city.
Of course, there might be
some places you might want to avoid,
especially at night time.
But if you come here,
just come with an open mind
and stay a bit aware.
What are your best tips for
travelling and staying safe?
Let us know in the comments.
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