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[Music] 00:04
Heat. Heat. 00:16
History tells that in the 16th century, 00:31
the great Inca Empire fled from the 00:34
ferocious onslaught of Spanish 00:37
concistadors. Somewhere deep inside the 00:40
jungles of Peru, the Incas built a last 00:43
stronghold. There they made their final 00:46
stand against their ruthless enemy. 00:49
But with their death, the memory of 00:54
where this last refuge was 00:56
disappeared. But one man was determined 00:59
to find 01:02
it. An American explorer named Hyram 01:06
Bingham. He was Indiana Jones. He was 01:09
6'4. He looked like a Hollywood idol. He 01:12
was a man obsessed with this mission. 01:15
Bingham was a tough tough explorer. No 01:18
Andian mountain seems to have been too 01:21
high for him. No jungle too dense. And 01:23
he did find an extraordinary Inca 01:26
city. Machu 01:31
Picchu. It was hailed as the lost city 01:33
in the 01:37
clouds. A spiritual Inca refuge perching 01:38
high on top of a skyscraping mountain. 01:42
Bingham was convinced he had found the 01:46
long-lost city of the Incas. 01:48
their final refuge from the Spanish 01:50
conquest. But all was not as it 01:55
[Music] 02:03
seemed. In 1911, there was a young 02:10
scholar specializing in modern Latin 02:13
American history at Yale University, 02:15
USA. 02:18
Hyram Bingham. But he was no 02:20
impoverished academic. Bingham was 36 02:22
years old, married to Alfredo Mitchell, 02:26
an ays to the Tiffany Diamond 02:28
Empire. They had six young sons and 02:32
lived in a 30- room mansion on top of a 02:35
hill. He was a man who seemed to have 02:39
all the comforts of life. 02:42
[Music] 02:44
[Music] 02:51
But Bingham was restless and driven. 02:55
Haram Bingham had a really compulsive 03:00
need to become famous and I think that's 03:02
because of his family. He was Haron 03:06
Bingham III and I think that's 03:09
incredibly important because his 03:11
grandfather Haron Bingham the first he 03:13
was a very powerful impressive 03:15
missionary character and so was his 03:16
father Haron Bingham I so there's this 03:18
legacy this weight on his shoulders that 03:21
he had to prove himself or or do 03:23
something with his life at the very 03:25
least what that something could be he 03:27
had absolutely no idea. 03:30
[Music] 03:33
Yeah. To secure a permanent position at 03:47
Yale University. Bingham went to Peru in 03:50
1909 to study the Spanish trade routes 03:54
between Buenazeres and Lemur. 03:57
During the journey, he was invited by 04:01
his guide to see an ancient Inca site 04:03
high up in the Andes 04:06
Mountains. It was an event that would 04:09
change his 04:12
[Music] 04:13
life. It was my first introduction to 04:21
prehistoric American history. I agreed 04:24
not knowing that it was going to lead me 04:28
into a fascinating 04:30
field. Bingham is taken to this remote 04:33
incaruin called Chi Cural uh which means 04:37
cradle of gold and is immediately struck 04:40
by the romance of the position. 04:42
The Inca ruins lay 10,000 ft above sea 04:48
level and the climb was astounding with 04:51
breathtaking views of the distant 04:54
snowcapped mountains and the roar of the 04:56
Apuramac River below. It was also 04:59
exhilarating. At times the trail was so 05:05
steep that it was easier to go on all 05:08
fours than to attempt to walk erect. 05:10
Most of the time we were hanging on to 05:15
the side of the mountain almost by our 05:17
eyelids. 05:18
On the way up they saw amazing sights, 05:21
including a huge condor that sailed down 05:24
to take a look at 05:27
them. We could not only see his cruel 05:29
beak and great talons, but even the 05:32
whites of his eyes. It was an awe 05:35
inspiring moment. 05:37
Bingham was a tough tough explorer. No 05:43
Andian mountain seems to have been too 05:47
high for him. No jungle too 05:49
[Music] 05:57
dense. Eventually they reached the Inca 06:05
ruins on the flattened peak. 06:08
[Music] 06:12
For Bingham, it was a magical 06:19
experience. Choke Karau was built in the 06:23
15th century and was believed to be a 06:26
sacred Inca dwelling and one of their 06:28
frontier 06:30
fortresses. It was designed to defend 06:32
the approaches to their great capital 06:35
city, Kusco. 06:37
Bingham wrote to his wife Alfreda to 06:40
tell her it was the most interesting 06:43
place he had ever 06:45
[Music] 06:51
seen. He's amazingly impressed by the 06:55
remains of Inca architecture because 06:58
he'd never known about this before. He'd 07:00
heard of the Incas, but he didn't know 07:02
that what they'd achieved was quite as 07:03
impressive as this. And people see this 07:05
as sort of epiphany. You know, this 07:08
really changes the direction of his 07:09
[Music] 07:12
life. Till now, Bingham's knowledge of 07:18
South American history was limited to 07:21
the Spanish colonial days, and he knew 07:23
very little about the 07:26
Incor. As he looked out to the distant 07:28
mountains, Bingham was keen to find out 07:31
more about them. 07:34
Who were these people who built this 07:36
extraordinary place? What was their 07:39
story? Those snowcapped peaks in an 07:43
unknown and unexplored part of Peru 07:46
fascinated me greatly. They tempted me 07:49
to go see what lay beyond. And he 07:51
thought of his line from 07:55
Kipling. Something hidden. Go and find 07:56
it. go and look behind the ranges. 07:59
[Music] 08:04
You get this feeling that this this 08:06
worked on him on his imagination that 08:08
somewhere just beyond the range was a 08:10
city, a world, a reputation to be found. 08:12
[Music] 08:21
Back in the Yale library, Bingham began 08:26
researching the Inca history. He opened 08:28
the pages of the Spanish Chronicles, a 08:31
key source on Spain's golden age of 08:34
discovery, conquest, and colonization of 08:38
the 08:41
Americas. He began reading more about 08:43
the Incas. And of course, even as a 08:45
non-academic, the story of the 08:47
concistadors and the Incor is incredibly 08:49
exciting. 08:52
Bingham learned how from the early 13th 08:53
century to the middle to late 16th 08:56
century, the Incas were the most 08:58
powerful empire in the 09:00
Americas. Their domain stretched over 09:03
2,000 m from modern-day Chile to the 09:05
Amazon. But then came 09:10
catastrophe. In 1532, the Spanish 09:21
concistadors, headed by their ruthless 09:24
leader, Francisco Pizarro, entered the 09:26
Inca heartland. He was hellbent on their 09:29
destruction. Over the next 40 years, the 09:33
Spaniards drove the Indians from their 09:37
cities and slaughtered them in their 09:39
thousands. Bingham really is intrigued 09:41
by the history of the last Incards and 09:44
what they done after the Spaniards 09:47
arrived. 09:48
Bingham's eyes were drawn to an account 09:56
where a young Inca emperor named Mango 09:58
had led his people as they fled their 10:01
capital city Kusco in 10:03
1536. Mano managed to escape the Spanish 10:07
and created a new Inca capital called 10:10
Vitkos 10,000 ft above sea level 10:13
somewhere in the remote mountainous 10:17
region of the Vilka Bamba Valley. 10:18
But the Spanish concistadors were in hot 10:27
pursuit and the Incor fled again. This 10:29
time the chronicle said they went down 10:32
from their mountain homes into the 10:35
Amazon 10:37
lowland. There, protected by a dense 10:39
jungle in the largest rainforest in the 10:42
world, they built a new city called Vil 10:44
Kabamba. 10:47
And it was here that the Incor made 10:48
their last 10:50
[Music] 10:52
stand. But it was all to no 10:57
avail. In 11:01
1572, the Spaniards finally defeated the 11:03
Incor. And so with their death, their 11:08
last refuge, Vilabamba, disappeared from 11:10
history. 11:14
[Music] 11:17
Bingham was transfixed by the story of 11:23
Vilabamba. But for all the references of 11:26
the city, there was one vital clue 11:29
missing. Nobody, as far as he could see, 11:32
knew where it was. This appealed to 11:35
Bingham as a puzzle he could solve 11:39
himself. 11:42
[Music] 11:43
Bingham tried to work out where 11:45
Vilabamba could 11:47
be. The Spanish Chronicles said it lay 11:50
30 m and two long days journey from 11:53
Vidcos, but he had no idea even where 11:57
Vitkos 12:00
was. Continuing his studies, he found 12:10
another 12:13
clue. The chronicle said that Vitkos was 12:15
100 mi northwest of Kusco along the 12:19
Urabamba Valley in the Andes mountain 12:22
range. Bingham knew where Kusco was. He 12:26
had visited it on his last trip to South 12:29
America. But if no one knew where Vitkos 12:33
was, how would he know when he'd reached 12:36
it? 12:39
[Music] 12:43
There was a further clue in the Spanish 12:46
accounts. They said that there was a 12:49
sacred area with a large white rock 12:51
close by the city. So if Bingham could 12:54
locate the white rock, he would know he 12:56
had found Vitkos. 12:59
Now Bingham realized that if he could 13:02
find Vitkos then two days beyond it he 13:04
should be able to find Vil 13:07
[Music] 13:09
Kabamba. This Bingham thought would be 13:19
how he could make his name. He would 13:22
lead an expedition to find the Inca's 13:25
last refuge, Vil Kabamba. 13:27
Bingham began to form his team. 13:30
He needed to be funded to take an 13:34
expedition down there. Particularly 13:36
then, it was an expensive 13:38
business. The first thing Bingham did 13:48
was approach a number of 13:50
corporations. Businesses specializing in 13:53
America's outdoor country pursuits 13:56
offered their support. 13:58
Abbercrombie and Fitch supplied Bingham 14:00
with an explorer's outfit. 14:03
He managed to get Winchester to give him 14:06
a rifle, Kodak to give a camera, and 14:07
then he turned to his classmates. 14:11
Bingham estimated that he would need six 14:13
expedition members, and that each one 14:16
would require $1,800 to cover their 14:19
travel and food expenses. 14:21
One former classmate heard about his 14:24
plans and offered him $1,800 if he would 14:27
take a Yale geologist with 14:30
him. Bingham snapped up the 14:33
offer. Others came forward. One was a 14:36
topographer, another a mountain climbing 14:40
engineer. Eventually, Bingham got 14:45
together a multid-disciplinary team. 14:47
So, he's got a doctor, a naturalist, 14:51
geologist, a couple of topographers. So, 14:53
it's a pretty good, well-rounded, 14:55
versatile 14:57
team. To pay his own way, Bingham 14:59
promised to write four articles for the 15:02
fashionable Harper's magazine. But he 15:04
was still $1,800 short. 15:06
Only now did he turn to the one source 15:12
he could rely on, his wife Alfreda, to 15:14
tap the Tiffany 15:18
fortune. She 15:20
[Music] 15:23
agreed. Bingham's party left New York 15:33
for Peru on the 8th of June, 1911. 15:36
[Music] 15:42
Their destination, the former Inca 15:45
capital city, 15:48
Cusco. This, Bingham knew, lay near the 15:50
Urabamba Valley in the Andes mountain 15:53
range and would be his starting off 15:55
point. 15:58
[Music] 16:05
Bingham's expedition arrived in Kusco on 16:12
the 2nd of July 16:15
1911. His aim was to first locate the 16:18
sacred white rock at Vitkos, then to 16:22
make his way down from the mountains 16:25
into the land Amazon jungle to search 16:27
for Vela Bambber. 16:30
[Music] 16:33
Bingham and his best friend, a 16:44
naturalist named Harry Foot, set out on 16:46
the morning of the 19th of July 1911 on 16:49
their quest for where they believed Vil 16:52
Kabamba could 16:54
[Music] 16:57
be. The rest of the party were 16:58
dispatched to carry out geological and 17:00
mapping surveys of the Andes. So they 17:02
head off across the the high altitude 17:06
lands, then descend into the Urubamba 17:07
Valley itself. The Urubamba is the 17:10
famous sacred valley of the Incas and 17:12
follow the the river along sort of 17:15
heading generally in the direction 17:17
northwest. 17:18
[Music] 17:26
Bingham kept a meticulous diary of his 17:39
expedition. Today it is regarded as one 17:43
of the greatest firstirhand accounts in 17:46
the history of exploration. 17:48
I had entered the marvelous canyon of 17:53
the Uru Bamba. Here the river runs 17:56
through gigantic mountains of granite. I 17:59
know of nowhere in the world that can 18:02
compare with it. Bingham writes in the 18:04
most compulsive way. Here's someone with 18:08
academic authority and yet he knows how 18:10
to tell a good story. 18:12
Not only does it have great snow peaks 18:17
looming above the clouds more than 2 18:19
miles overhead, it also has in striking 18:21
contrast orchids and tree ferns and the 18:24
mysterious witchery of the jungle. 18:27
[Music] 18:30
He paints pictures with words and not 18:37
just of visual things, but of the heart, 18:39
you know, the spirit, what you're 18:43
feeling. 18:44
One is drawn irresistibly onward by ever 18:49
recurring surprises through a deepened 18:52
winding gorge, turning and twisting past 18:55
overhanging cliffs of incredible height. 18:57
He's still got a little way to go before 19:03
he gets to this area where he thinks 19:05
he's going to find Vikos, the old Inca 19:07
capital. Uh so he's sort of working 19:09
himself in, working the team in. 19:11
[Music] 19:15
On the evening of the 23rd of July 1911, 19:25
after a 70-mile journey from Kusco and 19:28
3/4 of the way to where Vitkos is said 19:31
to be, Bingham and Foot set up camp for 19:34
the night in a canyon surrounded by 19:37
steep mountains. 19:40
[Music] 19:42
They camp at a place called Mandor 19:43
Pamper and they meet a man there called 19:45
Melchure Artiaga and he questions him. 19:48
He says, "You know, are there are there 19:51
ruins around here?" Artiaga told Bingham 19:52
there were some fine ones on top of the 19:56
opposite mountain called Huena Pichu and 19:59
also on a ridge called Machu Picchu or 20:02
Old Peak. 20:05
people in Peru were always telling him 20:07
that uh if he gave them a bit of money 20:10
they could lead him to a ruin and there 20:12
was a little bit of sort of won't get 20:14
fooled again feeling in his team. They 20:15
had heard ruins were around many times 20:19
and they'd gone it would be one little 20:22
house or couple of things. And this is 20:23
where I think we have to give a lot of 20:27
credit to Bingham because lesser men 20:29
would have said, "Oh, for God's sake, 20:31
you know, there's not supposed to be 20:33
anything up that hill. There's nothing 20:34
in the history books. Um, this is just a 20:35
wild goose chase. Bingham noted the 20:38
ruins names in his pocket diary and 20:40
arranged for Artiaga to take him there 20:43
the following day. 20:46
[Music] 20:50
The morning of the 24th of July, 1911, 21:04
dawned with a cold 21:07
rain. Bingham prepared for his climb up 21:10
Machu 21:13
Picchu. His best friend, Harry Foot, 21:14
didn't fancy the wet 21:17
conditions. The naturalist said there 21:19
were more butterflies near the river. 21:22
Anyway, it was my job to 21:24
investigate. Artyaga shivered. He said 21:27
it was too hard to climb for such a wet 21:30
day. But when he found out that I was 21:33
willing to pay him three or four times 21:35
the ordinary daily wage, he finally 21:37
agreed to go. 21:40
[Music] 21:45
Artyaga and Bingham left the camp at 21:54
10:00 21:57
[Music] 22:00
a.m. After a walk of about 3/4 of an 22:05
hour, Artyaga left the main road and 22:08
plunged down through the bank of the 22:10
river. Here there was a primitive bridge 22:14
which crossed the roaring 22:17
[Music] 22:23
rapids. It was obvious that no one could 22:26
live for an instant in the icy cold 22:29
rapids but would immediately be dashed 22:31
to pieces against the rocks. He said, "I 22:34
admit freely I was on my hands and knees 22:37
going really, really slowly across and 22:40
all I could think of was, I hope the 22:42
water doesn't go up because it'll just 22:43
take the bridge 22:45
away." After the river came the 22:52
mountain. Leaving the stream, we now 22:58
struggled up the bank through dense 23:01
jungle. 23:02
[Music] 23:06
and in a few minutes reached the bottom 23:09
of a very precipitous 23:11
slope. For an hour and 20 minutes, we 23:18
had a hard climb. 23:22
A good part of the distance we went on 23:32
all fours, sometimes holding on by our 23:34
fingernails. 23:37
[Music] 23:58
Bingham was now climbing at nearly 8,000 24:02
[Music] 24:07
ft. Bingham was going up through very 24:11
difficult cloud 24:14
forest. Conditions were humid. It was 24:16
hard work. 24:19
Shortly afternoon, just as we were 24:26
completely exhausted, we reached several 24:28
good-natured Indians who were pleasantly 24:31
surprised by our unexpected 24:33
arrival. It seemed that these Indians 24:37
had chosen this eagle's nest for their 24:40
home. 24:42
[Music] 24:48
A small boy named Pablo Riche was sent 24:54
on to guide Bingham around the 24:58
ruins. He's led by this little boy 25:01
around a corner and he sees something 25:05
quite extraordinary. 25:08
Hardly had we left and rounded the 25:14
promonry. Then we were confronted with 25:16
an unexpected 25:19
[Music] 25:21
sight. A great flight of beautifully 25:35
constructed stonefaced terraces. perhaps 25:38
a hundred of them, each hundreds of feet 25:41
long and 10 feet high. They had recently 25:43
been rescued from the jungle by the 25:46
Indians. It is an amazingly evocative 25:49
description of firstly going through 25:52
what were lovely Inca terraces, Bing 25:55
Bingham says, and then slowly things 25:58
build. 26:01
[Music] 26:03
From the cleared stonework, he was 26:15
introduced to another spectacular 26:17
[Music] 26:20
site. Suddenly, without warning, under a 26:25
huge overhanging ledge, the boy showed 26:28
me a cave beautifully lined with the 26:31
finest cut stone. 26:33
And then he's going from one wonder to 26:36
another. 26:38
It had evidently been a royal mosselum. 26:41
On top of this particular ledge was a 26:44
semi-ircular building whose outer wall 26:46
gently sloping and slightly curved or a 26:49
striking resemblance to the famous 26:52
temple of the sun in Kusco. Clearly it 26:54
was the work of a master artist. Then 26:58
there's the the the temple with the 27:01
rounded wall and then cumulatively the 27:03
overall effect. 27:06
Bingham was stunned by its magnificence 27:08
and realized that this wasn't just some 27:11
little Inca settlement he has come to 27:13
see. It seemed like an unbelievable 27:17
dream. 27:21
Dimly, I began to realize that this wall 27:22
and its adjoining semic-ircular temple 27:25
over the cave were as fine as the finest 27:28
stonework in the 27:31
world. It fairly took my breath away. 27:33
What could this place be? Why had no one 27:37
given us any idea of it? 27:41
[Music] 27:45
Surprise followed surprise in 27:56
bewildering succession. Suddenly, we 27:58
found ourselves standing in front of the 28:00
ruins of two of the finest and most 28:02
interesting structures in ancient 28:05
America. 28:06
[Music] 28:09
There are cyclopian stones, as he calls 28:15
them. Stones the height of a human, but 28:18
beautifully worked with very, very fine 28:21
granite. On the east side of the plaza 28:24
was another amazing structure. The ruins 28:27
of a temple containing three great 28:30
windows looking out over the canyon to 28:32
the rising sun. Like its neighbor, it is 28:35
unique among Inca ruins. 28:38
[Music] 28:40
Bingham had made an extraordinary 29:03
discovery. It seemed almost too good to 29:06
be 29:09
[Music] 29:10
true. Would anyone believe what I had 29:12
found? Fortunately, in this land where 29:16
accuracy in reporting what one has seen 29:19
is not a prevailing characteristic of 29:21
travelers, I had a good camera and the 29:23
sun was shining. 29:26
[Music] 29:31
I know that you had a very special Kodak 29:37
camera that was made for traveling in 29:40
rugged territory and the negatives are 29:43
huge. So the resolution, you know, the 29:46
the detail is really fantastic. 29:50
[Music] 29:54
But one question puzzled 30:06
Bingham. Where was he? Now Bingham was 30:09
not really looking for a ruin in this 30:13
part of the world. So he couldn't make 30:15
sense of what he'd found. 30:17
Machu Picchu laid 70 mi from Kusco. So, 30:21
it couldn't be Vitkos, which was said to 30:25
be a 100 miles from Kusco. And it 30:28
couldn't be the Inca's last refuge, 30:31
Vilabamba, because that was said to be 30:34
30 mi on from VidCos, down on the jungle 30:36
plains. So, what was this astonishing 30:42
place? 30:45
Suddenly, Bingham's eye focused on some 31:04
charcoal graffiti on a rock of the 31:07
three- windowed 31:10
temple. 31:12
Learaga, 31:13
1902. His blood ran cold. 31:15
Bingham was a man who wanted to make a 31:19
name for himself and he was pulled up 31:22
short. He suddenly saw this graffiti. 31:23
Had some scholar got there 31:26
first. Bingham wrote the name Lizaraga 31:29
1902 in his diary and prayed it wasn't 31:32
another 31:36
explorer. Maybe he'd been picked to the 31:38
post. Maybe this wasn't really a 31:40
discovery at all. 31:42
[Music] 31:45
Deeply worried, Bingham made his way 31:54
back down the 31:56
mountain. He hardly mentioned the Machu 31:59
Picchu ruins when he returned to the 32:02
campsite below. 32:04
In fact, his best friend Harry Foot 32:07
wrote in his diary, "No special things 32:10
to 32:12
[Music] 32:14
note." Bingham discreetly asked Artyaga 32:15
about the Lizaraga 1902 32:19
graffiti. Artyaga told Bingham, 32:22
"Augustine Lizaraga is the discoverer of 32:24
Machu Picchu. He lives at San Miguel 32:27
Bridge just downstream of your 32:30
campsite." And at that point Aringa must 32:34
have sighed and thought that is that and 32:37
he actually writes it in his diary. Lisa 32:40
Raga is the 32:43
discoverer and his heart must have 32:46
[Music] 32:49
sunk. Bingham was horrified and set off 32:56
to find the mysterious Lizaraga. 33:00
But when he got to San Miguel Bridge, 33:05
Augustine Lzaraga was not at home. So 33:08
Bingham spoke to his brother 33:11
Angel. Angel told him that the ruins 33:14
were known in the valley and parts of it 33:17
were cultivated by farmers. His brother 33:19
was one of those 33:23
farmers. Bingham relaxed. Lizar wasn't a 33:26
rival academic after all. 33:30
He was just a local Peruvian 33:32
peasant. Bingham's discovery of Machu 33:34
Picchu was 33:37
[Music] 33:39
[Music] 33:48
secure. The very next day, he set off on 33:52
another long journey to search for the 33:55
last refuge of the Incoraba. 33:57
But first, he had to locate the white 34:02
rock at 34:05
VidCos. Bingham followed the information 34:10
detailed in the Spanish Chronicles he 34:13
had read back at Yale. He asked every 34:15
local they passed if they knew the 34:18
whereabouts of any ruins in the area and 34:21
paid local guides to lead him onwards. 34:24
He carries on down the valley into even 34:27
more uncharted territory. He's put the 34:31
whole thing of Machu Picchu to one side. 34:33
[Music] 34:40
15 days after encountering the ruins of 34:48
Machu Picchu, Bingham came across the 34:50
sacred white rock mentioned in the 34:52
Chronicles as being close to the Inca's 34:55
capital city, 34:57
[Music] 34:59
Vitkos. It was late on the afternoon of 35:02
August 9th, 1911, when I first saw this 35:05
remarkable shrine. 35:08
We could now be fairly sure that we had 35:12
located one of Mango's capitals, Vitkas. 35:15
[Music] 35:22
If Bingham had found the ruins of the 35:27
former Inca city 35:29
Vitkos, it meant that he had to be on 35:30
the right track and close to completing 35:33
his 35:36
objective, finding their last refuge, 35:36
Velabamba. The Chronicle said it was a 35:41
long two-day journey from 35:43
Vidcos. By now, Bingham's blood is up. I 35:46
mean he realized that these ruins are 35:49
topping over like nine pins you know 35:51
he's found Machu Picchu he's found Vikos 35:53
and there's one final place he wants to 35:55
find which is a place where the Inca 35:58
emperor and the exiles escaped to if the 36:00
Spanish ever came looking for 36:03
them. Bingham came down from the 36:11
mountains into the huge land jungles of 36:13
the 36:16
Amazon. This was now a very different 36:21
world to the ethereal mountaintops of 36:23
Machu 36:26
Picchu. It was a place that even the 36:33
local Peruvians feared, like the Spanish 36:36
concistadors before them. 36:39
One of our informants said the Inca city 36:47
was called Espiritu Pampa or the plane 36:50
of the ghosts to be reached only by a 36:54
hard trail passable for barefooted 36:57
savages, but scarcely available for us 36:59
unless we chose to go on our hands and 37:02
knees. 37:05
[Music] 37:07
[Music] 37:16
Finally, after several days traveling, 37:27
Bingham found beneath the thick twines 37:30
of a rainforest jungle evidence of some 37:32
ruins. To his excitement, the locals 37:41
called it Espiru Pampa. Even better, 37:44
they also called it Vila 37:48
[Music] 37:52
Bambber. Surely Bingham had found the 37:56
last refuge of the 37:59
[Music] 38:06
Incor. But as he set to work, he came 38:11
across something very puzzling. 38:14
The few buildings he had found were 38:20
clearly Inca, but their stonework was 38:22
rough and 38:25
inferior. Bingham searched for more 38:28
extensive 38:30
ruins, but failed to find anything 38:32
substantial. Bingham wrote in his diary, 38:37
"After several days digging, ruins well 38:40
scattered. Long hard job to clear ruins. 38:43
Hardly 38:46
[Music] 38:48
worthwhile. The more Bingham dug, the 38:57
more he became convinced that the site 39:00
just wasn't special enough to 39:02
be. But if this wasn't the place where 39:07
the Incor had their last refuge, then 39:09
where was it? 39:12
[Music] 39:15
Slowly Bingham started to reconsider the 39:25
evidence. He went back to the Spanish 39:29
chronicles. They told him that Vilabamba 39:34
was the largest city in the province. 39:36
Machu Picchu was clearly much bigger 39:40
than anything he had found in the 39:42
jungle. Then there was the puzzling 39:47
issue of the inferior 39:49
architecture. Nothing he saw in the 39:53
Amazon matched the finely cut stone at 39:55
Machu 39:58
Picchu. Bingham also wondered about 40:00
something else. Would the Incor, who are 40:02
highland people, have really made a home 40:06
down in the flatland 40:08
jungle? It does not seem reasonable that 40:11
such people would have cared to live in 40:14
the hot valley of Esperu Pampa. These 40:16
Inca ruins are unique in lying so low in 40:19
the Amazon jungle. The difference in 40:22
climate is as great as that between 40:24
Scotland and Egypt. 40:27
Furthermore, they could have found the 40:30
seclusion and safety which they craved 40:32
just as well in several other parts of 40:34
the province, particularly at Machu 40:36
[Music] 40:42
Picchu. Now he began focusing on another 40:49
issue. 40:52
The chronicle stated that the city of 40:55
Vlabamba laid two days march from 40:57
Vitkos. So did Machu Picchu, albeit in a 41:01
different 41:05
direction. Machu Picchu was roughly 2 41:06
days from Bitco and he did it. He walked 41:10
from Bitkos across back to Machu Picchu 41:13
directly. 41:16
An idea slowly began to dawn on him. 41:18
Could his discovery Machu Picchu be the 41:21
real Vil 41:24
[Music] 41:26
[Music] 41:34
Kabamba? Bingham returned to America at 41:42
the end of 1911, determined to prove his 41:45
case. 41:48
After Bingham discovered Machu Picchu in 41:50
1911, there was very little publicity. 41:53
Tiny mentions in New York Times, in the 41:56
geographical magazine in London, but 41:57
nothing 41:59
[Music] 42:00
much. Bingham revisited Machu Picchu in 42:06
1912, increasingly convinced it was 42:10
Vilabamba, the last refuge of the Incas. 42:13
He was now head of a major excavation 42:18
and clearing program funded by Yale and 42:21
the National Geographic 42:24
Society. Looking over the tangled city, 42:28
Bingham wrote in his 42:31
diary. Matu Pichu ruins as fine as ever. 42:33
Very impressive. 42:37
The material Bingham produced was so 42:42
impressive that the National Geographic 42:44
devoted an entire issue of their 42:46
magazine to his discovery. 42:48
The owner of National Geographic 42:52
magazine said, "Uh, we're going to make 42:54
Machu Peach a star. And moreover, uh, 42:57
Mr. Bingham, we're going to make you a 42:59
star as well. 43:00
[Music] 43:03
In April 1913, with the cover title In 43:13
the Wonderland of Peru, National 43:17
Geographic published in pictures and 43:19
text, Bingham's amazing account of his 43:21
finding of Machu 43:25
Picchu. The news was a global sensation. 43:28
The public needed little convincing. 43:33
Finally, it became accepted that Machu 43:35
Picchu was Vil Kabamba, the Inca's final 43:38
refuge, and Hyram Bingham's name was 43:43
made. 43:46
[Music] 43:48
Haram Bingham would go down in history 44:01
as one of the all-time great explorers. 44:03
But there is an irony in this tale. 44:06
Machu Picchu was an amazing Inca 44:09
site. However, modern scholars now 44:13
believe that the ruins at a spiritu 44:16
which Bingham had dismissed in 1911 are 44:19
far grander and larger than he had 44:22
realized. 44:25
In 1964, some 50 years after Bingham had 44:27
been there, an American called Jean 44:30
Seavoi, an adventurer and archaeologist, 44:33
went down to a spiritu pamper and did a 44:36
much more thorough clearing of the site 44:39
and established really beyond doubt that 44:43
that was indeed the proper last refuge 44:45
of the Incas, which I think all 44:47
archaeologists would agree today. 44:49
[Music] 44:52
Bingham's initial detective work that 44:55
had led him to Espiritu Pampa had been 44:58
on the right trail after 45:01
all. He had found the real Vilaba. He 45:04
just hadn't realized it. 45:08
[Music] 45:12
So, if Machu Picchu wasn't the last 45:23
refuge of the 45:25
Incor, what was it? 45:26
[Music] 45:29
Today, Machu Picchu is believed to have 45:41
been built by the Incor during the 45:43
expansion of their empire in the mid 45:45
15th century, 75 years before the 45:48
Spanish arrived. 45:51
It was constructed as a royal estate and 45:54
served as a sacred and seasonal retreat 45:57
for the Inca rulers whenever the weather 45:59
was severe in their capital city 46:02
Kusco. Everyone now tends to the view 46:06
that it was built as a winter palace for 46:09
an Inca emperor, probably the greatest 46:13
of them all, Patchakouti. He could come 46:15
down with his retinue to Machu Picchu, 46:17
which has a much better climate, and 46:20
enjoy a fabulous resort type atmosphere. 46:22
It was a very exclusive place, which is 46:25
perhaps why there was no historical 46:27
record of it. It was a place where an 46:30
emperor could build his own fantasy 46:33
creation in the clouds. A sort of Las 46:35
Vegas, if you like, which if it didn't 46:37
have neon billboards, did have this 46:39
showoff architecture that only an 46:42
emperor could afford. 46:45
Scholars now believe Machu Picchu was 46:48
abandoned by the Incor before the 46:51
Spanish arrived in Peru in 1532. 46:53
Why they left their great winter 46:57
retreat, however, remains a 46:59
[Music] 47:02
mystery. So, where does that leave Hyram 47:17
Bingham today? 47:20
Was he just an adventurer who allowed 47:23
his prejudice and emotions to get the 47:26
better of 47:28
him? Most would regard that as too 47:29
harsh. To many explorers, he remains a 47:31
hero. Harum Bingham was the perfect man 47:36
of the moment. Here was a character with 47:40
a dream, someone who wished to find 47:43
treasure, and that is exactly what he 47:45
did. 47:48
He made the discovery both of Machu 47:50
Picchu and of other very important Inca 47:52
sites. I think in many ways he is a bit 47:55
of a hero and uh rather more of a hero 47:58
perhaps than Indiana Jones because he's 48:01
real. He was the first scientific 48:03
discoverer, the man who took the time, 48:06
brought money to the enterprise, who 48:09
exposed Machu Picchu to the world, 48:11
literally peeling back that forest and 48:13
showing us what an extraordinary place 48:15
it was. 48:17
I was so happy that he had had the 48:18
energy and the curiosity and the drive 48:21
to find Machu Picchu, to rediscover it, 48:24
to write about it, to make it famous to 48:28
the whole world so other people could 48:30
come and really enjoy it. 48:33
Despite being wrong about Vilabomba and 48:36
Machu Picchu, Hyram Bingham is still 48:39
regarded as one of the greatest 48:42
explorers of his age. After all, perhaps 48:44
he found one of the great wonders of the 48:48
modern 48:50
world. The sanctuary was lost for 48:53
centuries because this ridge is in the 48:56
most inaccessible corner of the most 48:59
inaccessible section of the central 49:01
Andes. No part of the highlands of Peru 49:03
is better defended by natural bull 49:06
works. A stupendous canyon whose rock is 49:08
granite and whose precipaces are 49:11
frequently 1,000 ft sheer. 49:13
Yet here in a remote part of the canyon, 49:17
on a narrow ridge flanked by tremendous 49:20
precipaces, a highly civilized people, 49:23
artistic, inventive, wellorganized, and 49:26
capable of sustained endeavor at some 49:29
time in the distant past, built 49:32
themselves a sanctuary for the worship 49:34
of the sun. 49:37
[Music] 49:44
[Music] 49:58
Heat. Heat. 49:59
[Music] 50:05

– English Lyrics

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[English]
[Music]
Heat. Heat.
History tells that in the 16th century,
the great Inca Empire fled from the
ferocious onslaught of Spanish
concistadors. Somewhere deep inside the
jungles of Peru, the Incas built a last
stronghold. There they made their final
stand against their ruthless enemy.
But with their death, the memory of
where this last refuge was
disappeared. But one man was determined
to find
it. An American explorer named Hyram
Bingham. He was Indiana Jones. He was
6'4. He looked like a Hollywood idol. He
was a man obsessed with this mission.
Bingham was a tough tough explorer. No
Andian mountain seems to have been too
high for him. No jungle too dense. And
he did find an extraordinary Inca
city. Machu
Picchu. It was hailed as the lost city
in the
clouds. A spiritual Inca refuge perching
high on top of a skyscraping mountain.
Bingham was convinced he had found the
long-lost city of the Incas.
their final refuge from the Spanish
conquest. But all was not as it
[Music]
seemed. In 1911, there was a young
scholar specializing in modern Latin
American history at Yale University,
USA.
Hyram Bingham. But he was no
impoverished academic. Bingham was 36
years old, married to Alfredo Mitchell,
an ays to the Tiffany Diamond
Empire. They had six young sons and
lived in a 30- room mansion on top of a
hill. He was a man who seemed to have
all the comforts of life.
[Music]
[Music]
But Bingham was restless and driven.
Haram Bingham had a really compulsive
need to become famous and I think that's
because of his family. He was Haron
Bingham III and I think that's
incredibly important because his
grandfather Haron Bingham the first he
was a very powerful impressive
missionary character and so was his
father Haron Bingham I so there's this
legacy this weight on his shoulders that
he had to prove himself or or do
something with his life at the very
least what that something could be he
had absolutely no idea.
[Music]
Yeah. To secure a permanent position at
Yale University. Bingham went to Peru in
1909 to study the Spanish trade routes
between Buenazeres and Lemur.
During the journey, he was invited by
his guide to see an ancient Inca site
high up in the Andes
Mountains. It was an event that would
change his
[Music]
life. It was my first introduction to
prehistoric American history. I agreed
not knowing that it was going to lead me
into a fascinating
field. Bingham is taken to this remote
incaruin called Chi Cural uh which means
cradle of gold and is immediately struck
by the romance of the position.
The Inca ruins lay 10,000 ft above sea
level and the climb was astounding with
breathtaking views of the distant
snowcapped mountains and the roar of the
Apuramac River below. It was also
exhilarating. At times the trail was so
steep that it was easier to go on all
fours than to attempt to walk erect.
Most of the time we were hanging on to
the side of the mountain almost by our
eyelids.
On the way up they saw amazing sights,
including a huge condor that sailed down
to take a look at
them. We could not only see his cruel
beak and great talons, but even the
whites of his eyes. It was an awe
inspiring moment.
Bingham was a tough tough explorer. No
Andian mountain seems to have been too
high for him. No jungle too
[Music]
dense. Eventually they reached the Inca
ruins on the flattened peak.
[Music]
For Bingham, it was a magical
experience. Choke Karau was built in the
15th century and was believed to be a
sacred Inca dwelling and one of their
frontier
fortresses. It was designed to defend
the approaches to their great capital
city, Kusco.
Bingham wrote to his wife Alfreda to
tell her it was the most interesting
place he had ever
[Music]
seen. He's amazingly impressed by the
remains of Inca architecture because
he'd never known about this before. He'd
heard of the Incas, but he didn't know
that what they'd achieved was quite as
impressive as this. And people see this
as sort of epiphany. You know, this
really changes the direction of his
[Music]
life. Till now, Bingham's knowledge of
South American history was limited to
the Spanish colonial days, and he knew
very little about the
Incor. As he looked out to the distant
mountains, Bingham was keen to find out
more about them.
Who were these people who built this
extraordinary place? What was their
story? Those snowcapped peaks in an
unknown and unexplored part of Peru
fascinated me greatly. They tempted me
to go see what lay beyond. And he
thought of his line from
Kipling. Something hidden. Go and find
it. go and look behind the ranges.
[Music]
You get this feeling that this this
worked on him on his imagination that
somewhere just beyond the range was a
city, a world, a reputation to be found.
[Music]
Back in the Yale library, Bingham began
researching the Inca history. He opened
the pages of the Spanish Chronicles, a
key source on Spain's golden age of
discovery, conquest, and colonization of
the
Americas. He began reading more about
the Incas. And of course, even as a
non-academic, the story of the
concistadors and the Incor is incredibly
exciting.
Bingham learned how from the early 13th
century to the middle to late 16th
century, the Incas were the most
powerful empire in the
Americas. Their domain stretched over
2,000 m from modern-day Chile to the
Amazon. But then came
catastrophe. In 1532, the Spanish
concistadors, headed by their ruthless
leader, Francisco Pizarro, entered the
Inca heartland. He was hellbent on their
destruction. Over the next 40 years, the
Spaniards drove the Indians from their
cities and slaughtered them in their
thousands. Bingham really is intrigued
by the history of the last Incards and
what they done after the Spaniards
arrived.
Bingham's eyes were drawn to an account
where a young Inca emperor named Mango
had led his people as they fled their
capital city Kusco in
1536. Mano managed to escape the Spanish
and created a new Inca capital called
Vitkos 10,000 ft above sea level
somewhere in the remote mountainous
region of the Vilka Bamba Valley.
But the Spanish concistadors were in hot
pursuit and the Incor fled again. This
time the chronicle said they went down
from their mountain homes into the
Amazon
lowland. There, protected by a dense
jungle in the largest rainforest in the
world, they built a new city called Vil
Kabamba.
And it was here that the Incor made
their last
[Music]
stand. But it was all to no
avail. In
1572, the Spaniards finally defeated the
Incor. And so with their death, their
last refuge, Vilabamba, disappeared from
history.
[Music]
Bingham was transfixed by the story of
Vilabamba. But for all the references of
the city, there was one vital clue
missing. Nobody, as far as he could see,
knew where it was. This appealed to
Bingham as a puzzle he could solve
himself.
[Music]
Bingham tried to work out where
Vilabamba could
be. The Spanish Chronicles said it lay
30 m and two long days journey from
Vidcos, but he had no idea even where
Vitkos
was. Continuing his studies, he found
another
clue. The chronicle said that Vitkos was
100 mi northwest of Kusco along the
Urabamba Valley in the Andes mountain
range. Bingham knew where Kusco was. He
had visited it on his last trip to South
America. But if no one knew where Vitkos
was, how would he know when he'd reached
it?
[Music]
There was a further clue in the Spanish
accounts. They said that there was a
sacred area with a large white rock
close by the city. So if Bingham could
locate the white rock, he would know he
had found Vitkos.
Now Bingham realized that if he could
find Vitkos then two days beyond it he
should be able to find Vil
[Music]
Kabamba. This Bingham thought would be
how he could make his name. He would
lead an expedition to find the Inca's
last refuge, Vil Kabamba.
Bingham began to form his team.
He needed to be funded to take an
expedition down there. Particularly
then, it was an expensive
business. The first thing Bingham did
was approach a number of
corporations. Businesses specializing in
America's outdoor country pursuits
offered their support.
Abbercrombie and Fitch supplied Bingham
with an explorer's outfit.
He managed to get Winchester to give him
a rifle, Kodak to give a camera, and
then he turned to his classmates.
Bingham estimated that he would need six
expedition members, and that each one
would require $1,800 to cover their
travel and food expenses.
One former classmate heard about his
plans and offered him $1,800 if he would
take a Yale geologist with
him. Bingham snapped up the
offer. Others came forward. One was a
topographer, another a mountain climbing
engineer. Eventually, Bingham got
together a multid-disciplinary team.
So, he's got a doctor, a naturalist,
geologist, a couple of topographers. So,
it's a pretty good, well-rounded,
versatile
team. To pay his own way, Bingham
promised to write four articles for the
fashionable Harper's magazine. But he
was still $1,800 short.
Only now did he turn to the one source
he could rely on, his wife Alfreda, to
tap the Tiffany
fortune. She
[Music]
agreed. Bingham's party left New York
for Peru on the 8th of June, 1911.
[Music]
Their destination, the former Inca
capital city,
Cusco. This, Bingham knew, lay near the
Urabamba Valley in the Andes mountain
range and would be his starting off
point.
[Music]
Bingham's expedition arrived in Kusco on
the 2nd of July
1911. His aim was to first locate the
sacred white rock at Vitkos, then to
make his way down from the mountains
into the land Amazon jungle to search
for Vela Bambber.
[Music]
Bingham and his best friend, a
naturalist named Harry Foot, set out on
the morning of the 19th of July 1911 on
their quest for where they believed Vil
Kabamba could
[Music]
be. The rest of the party were
dispatched to carry out geological and
mapping surveys of the Andes. So they
head off across the the high altitude
lands, then descend into the Urubamba
Valley itself. The Urubamba is the
famous sacred valley of the Incas and
follow the the river along sort of
heading generally in the direction
northwest.
[Music]
Bingham kept a meticulous diary of his
expedition. Today it is regarded as one
of the greatest firstirhand accounts in
the history of exploration.
I had entered the marvelous canyon of
the Uru Bamba. Here the river runs
through gigantic mountains of granite. I
know of nowhere in the world that can
compare with it. Bingham writes in the
most compulsive way. Here's someone with
academic authority and yet he knows how
to tell a good story.
Not only does it have great snow peaks
looming above the clouds more than 2
miles overhead, it also has in striking
contrast orchids and tree ferns and the
mysterious witchery of the jungle.
[Music]
He paints pictures with words and not
just of visual things, but of the heart,
you know, the spirit, what you're
feeling.
One is drawn irresistibly onward by ever
recurring surprises through a deepened
winding gorge, turning and twisting past
overhanging cliffs of incredible height.
He's still got a little way to go before
he gets to this area where he thinks
he's going to find Vikos, the old Inca
capital. Uh so he's sort of working
himself in, working the team in.
[Music]
On the evening of the 23rd of July 1911,
after a 70-mile journey from Kusco and
3/4 of the way to where Vitkos is said
to be, Bingham and Foot set up camp for
the night in a canyon surrounded by
steep mountains.
[Music]
They camp at a place called Mandor
Pamper and they meet a man there called
Melchure Artiaga and he questions him.
He says, "You know, are there are there
ruins around here?" Artiaga told Bingham
there were some fine ones on top of the
opposite mountain called Huena Pichu and
also on a ridge called Machu Picchu or
Old Peak.
people in Peru were always telling him
that uh if he gave them a bit of money
they could lead him to a ruin and there
was a little bit of sort of won't get
fooled again feeling in his team. They
had heard ruins were around many times
and they'd gone it would be one little
house or couple of things. And this is
where I think we have to give a lot of
credit to Bingham because lesser men
would have said, "Oh, for God's sake,
you know, there's not supposed to be
anything up that hill. There's nothing
in the history books. Um, this is just a
wild goose chase. Bingham noted the
ruins names in his pocket diary and
arranged for Artiaga to take him there
the following day.
[Music]
The morning of the 24th of July, 1911,
dawned with a cold
rain. Bingham prepared for his climb up
Machu
Picchu. His best friend, Harry Foot,
didn't fancy the wet
conditions. The naturalist said there
were more butterflies near the river.
Anyway, it was my job to
investigate. Artyaga shivered. He said
it was too hard to climb for such a wet
day. But when he found out that I was
willing to pay him three or four times
the ordinary daily wage, he finally
agreed to go.
[Music]
Artyaga and Bingham left the camp at
10:00
[Music]
a.m. After a walk of about 3/4 of an
hour, Artyaga left the main road and
plunged down through the bank of the
river. Here there was a primitive bridge
which crossed the roaring
[Music]
rapids. It was obvious that no one could
live for an instant in the icy cold
rapids but would immediately be dashed
to pieces against the rocks. He said, "I
admit freely I was on my hands and knees
going really, really slowly across and
all I could think of was, I hope the
water doesn't go up because it'll just
take the bridge
away." After the river came the
mountain. Leaving the stream, we now
struggled up the bank through dense
jungle.
[Music]
and in a few minutes reached the bottom
of a very precipitous
slope. For an hour and 20 minutes, we
had a hard climb.
A good part of the distance we went on
all fours, sometimes holding on by our
fingernails.
[Music]
Bingham was now climbing at nearly 8,000
[Music]
ft. Bingham was going up through very
difficult cloud
forest. Conditions were humid. It was
hard work.
Shortly afternoon, just as we were
completely exhausted, we reached several
good-natured Indians who were pleasantly
surprised by our unexpected
arrival. It seemed that these Indians
had chosen this eagle's nest for their
home.
[Music]
A small boy named Pablo Riche was sent
on to guide Bingham around the
ruins. He's led by this little boy
around a corner and he sees something
quite extraordinary.
Hardly had we left and rounded the
promonry. Then we were confronted with
an unexpected
[Music]
sight. A great flight of beautifully
constructed stonefaced terraces. perhaps
a hundred of them, each hundreds of feet
long and 10 feet high. They had recently
been rescued from the jungle by the
Indians. It is an amazingly evocative
description of firstly going through
what were lovely Inca terraces, Bing
Bingham says, and then slowly things
build.
[Music]
From the cleared stonework, he was
introduced to another spectacular
[Music]
site. Suddenly, without warning, under a
huge overhanging ledge, the boy showed
me a cave beautifully lined with the
finest cut stone.
And then he's going from one wonder to
another.
It had evidently been a royal mosselum.
On top of this particular ledge was a
semi-ircular building whose outer wall
gently sloping and slightly curved or a
striking resemblance to the famous
temple of the sun in Kusco. Clearly it
was the work of a master artist. Then
there's the the the temple with the
rounded wall and then cumulatively the
overall effect.
Bingham was stunned by its magnificence
and realized that this wasn't just some
little Inca settlement he has come to
see. It seemed like an unbelievable
dream.
Dimly, I began to realize that this wall
and its adjoining semic-ircular temple
over the cave were as fine as the finest
stonework in the
world. It fairly took my breath away.
What could this place be? Why had no one
given us any idea of it?
[Music]
Surprise followed surprise in
bewildering succession. Suddenly, we
found ourselves standing in front of the
ruins of two of the finest and most
interesting structures in ancient
America.
[Music]
There are cyclopian stones, as he calls
them. Stones the height of a human, but
beautifully worked with very, very fine
granite. On the east side of the plaza
was another amazing structure. The ruins
of a temple containing three great
windows looking out over the canyon to
the rising sun. Like its neighbor, it is
unique among Inca ruins.
[Music]
Bingham had made an extraordinary
discovery. It seemed almost too good to
be
[Music]
true. Would anyone believe what I had
found? Fortunately, in this land where
accuracy in reporting what one has seen
is not a prevailing characteristic of
travelers, I had a good camera and the
sun was shining.
[Music]
I know that you had a very special Kodak
camera that was made for traveling in
rugged territory and the negatives are
huge. So the resolution, you know, the
the detail is really fantastic.
[Music]
But one question puzzled
Bingham. Where was he? Now Bingham was
not really looking for a ruin in this
part of the world. So he couldn't make
sense of what he'd found.
Machu Picchu laid 70 mi from Kusco. So,
it couldn't be Vitkos, which was said to
be a 100 miles from Kusco. And it
couldn't be the Inca's last refuge,
Vilabamba, because that was said to be
30 mi on from VidCos, down on the jungle
plains. So, what was this astonishing
place?
Suddenly, Bingham's eye focused on some
charcoal graffiti on a rock of the
three- windowed
temple.
Learaga,
1902. His blood ran cold.
Bingham was a man who wanted to make a
name for himself and he was pulled up
short. He suddenly saw this graffiti.
Had some scholar got there
first. Bingham wrote the name Lizaraga
1902 in his diary and prayed it wasn't
another
explorer. Maybe he'd been picked to the
post. Maybe this wasn't really a
discovery at all.
[Music]
Deeply worried, Bingham made his way
back down the
mountain. He hardly mentioned the Machu
Picchu ruins when he returned to the
campsite below.
In fact, his best friend Harry Foot
wrote in his diary, "No special things
to
[Music]
note." Bingham discreetly asked Artyaga
about the Lizaraga 1902
graffiti. Artyaga told Bingham,
"Augustine Lizaraga is the discoverer of
Machu Picchu. He lives at San Miguel
Bridge just downstream of your
campsite." And at that point Aringa must
have sighed and thought that is that and
he actually writes it in his diary. Lisa
Raga is the
discoverer and his heart must have
[Music]
sunk. Bingham was horrified and set off
to find the mysterious Lizaraga.
But when he got to San Miguel Bridge,
Augustine Lzaraga was not at home. So
Bingham spoke to his brother
Angel. Angel told him that the ruins
were known in the valley and parts of it
were cultivated by farmers. His brother
was one of those
farmers. Bingham relaxed. Lizar wasn't a
rival academic after all.
He was just a local Peruvian
peasant. Bingham's discovery of Machu
Picchu was
[Music]
[Music]
secure. The very next day, he set off on
another long journey to search for the
last refuge of the Incoraba.
But first, he had to locate the white
rock at
VidCos. Bingham followed the information
detailed in the Spanish Chronicles he
had read back at Yale. He asked every
local they passed if they knew the
whereabouts of any ruins in the area and
paid local guides to lead him onwards.
He carries on down the valley into even
more uncharted territory. He's put the
whole thing of Machu Picchu to one side.
[Music]
15 days after encountering the ruins of
Machu Picchu, Bingham came across the
sacred white rock mentioned in the
Chronicles as being close to the Inca's
capital city,
[Music]
Vitkos. It was late on the afternoon of
August 9th, 1911, when I first saw this
remarkable shrine.
We could now be fairly sure that we had
located one of Mango's capitals, Vitkas.
[Music]
If Bingham had found the ruins of the
former Inca city
Vitkos, it meant that he had to be on
the right track and close to completing
his
objective, finding their last refuge,
Velabamba. The Chronicle said it was a
long two-day journey from
Vidcos. By now, Bingham's blood is up. I
mean he realized that these ruins are
topping over like nine pins you know
he's found Machu Picchu he's found Vikos
and there's one final place he wants to
find which is a place where the Inca
emperor and the exiles escaped to if the
Spanish ever came looking for
them. Bingham came down from the
mountains into the huge land jungles of
the
Amazon. This was now a very different
world to the ethereal mountaintops of
Machu
Picchu. It was a place that even the
local Peruvians feared, like the Spanish
concistadors before them.
One of our informants said the Inca city
was called Espiritu Pampa or the plane
of the ghosts to be reached only by a
hard trail passable for barefooted
savages, but scarcely available for us
unless we chose to go on our hands and
knees.
[Music]
[Music]
Finally, after several days traveling,
Bingham found beneath the thick twines
of a rainforest jungle evidence of some
ruins. To his excitement, the locals
called it Espiru Pampa. Even better,
they also called it Vila
[Music]
Bambber. Surely Bingham had found the
last refuge of the
[Music]
Incor. But as he set to work, he came
across something very puzzling.
The few buildings he had found were
clearly Inca, but their stonework was
rough and
inferior. Bingham searched for more
extensive
ruins, but failed to find anything
substantial. Bingham wrote in his diary,
"After several days digging, ruins well
scattered. Long hard job to clear ruins.
Hardly
[Music]
worthwhile. The more Bingham dug, the
more he became convinced that the site
just wasn't special enough to
be. But if this wasn't the place where
the Incor had their last refuge, then
where was it?
[Music]
Slowly Bingham started to reconsider the
evidence. He went back to the Spanish
chronicles. They told him that Vilabamba
was the largest city in the province.
Machu Picchu was clearly much bigger
than anything he had found in the
jungle. Then there was the puzzling
issue of the inferior
architecture. Nothing he saw in the
Amazon matched the finely cut stone at
Machu
Picchu. Bingham also wondered about
something else. Would the Incor, who are
highland people, have really made a home
down in the flatland
jungle? It does not seem reasonable that
such people would have cared to live in
the hot valley of Esperu Pampa. These
Inca ruins are unique in lying so low in
the Amazon jungle. The difference in
climate is as great as that between
Scotland and Egypt.
Furthermore, they could have found the
seclusion and safety which they craved
just as well in several other parts of
the province, particularly at Machu
[Music]
Picchu. Now he began focusing on another
issue.
The chronicle stated that the city of
Vlabamba laid two days march from
Vitkos. So did Machu Picchu, albeit in a
different
direction. Machu Picchu was roughly 2
days from Bitco and he did it. He walked
from Bitkos across back to Machu Picchu
directly.
An idea slowly began to dawn on him.
Could his discovery Machu Picchu be the
real Vil
[Music]
[Music]
Kabamba? Bingham returned to America at
the end of 1911, determined to prove his
case.
After Bingham discovered Machu Picchu in
1911, there was very little publicity.
Tiny mentions in New York Times, in the
geographical magazine in London, but
nothing
[Music]
much. Bingham revisited Machu Picchu in
1912, increasingly convinced it was
Vilabamba, the last refuge of the Incas.
He was now head of a major excavation
and clearing program funded by Yale and
the National Geographic
Society. Looking over the tangled city,
Bingham wrote in his
diary. Matu Pichu ruins as fine as ever.
Very impressive.
The material Bingham produced was so
impressive that the National Geographic
devoted an entire issue of their
magazine to his discovery.
The owner of National Geographic
magazine said, "Uh, we're going to make
Machu Peach a star. And moreover, uh,
Mr. Bingham, we're going to make you a
star as well.
[Music]
In April 1913, with the cover title In
the Wonderland of Peru, National
Geographic published in pictures and
text, Bingham's amazing account of his
finding of Machu
Picchu. The news was a global sensation.
The public needed little convincing.
Finally, it became accepted that Machu
Picchu was Vil Kabamba, the Inca's final
refuge, and Hyram Bingham's name was
made.
[Music]
Haram Bingham would go down in history
as one of the all-time great explorers.
But there is an irony in this tale.
Machu Picchu was an amazing Inca
site. However, modern scholars now
believe that the ruins at a spiritu
which Bingham had dismissed in 1911 are
far grander and larger than he had
realized.
In 1964, some 50 years after Bingham had
been there, an American called Jean
Seavoi, an adventurer and archaeologist,
went down to a spiritu pamper and did a
much more thorough clearing of the site
and established really beyond doubt that
that was indeed the proper last refuge
of the Incas, which I think all
archaeologists would agree today.
[Music]
Bingham's initial detective work that
had led him to Espiritu Pampa had been
on the right trail after
all. He had found the real Vilaba. He
just hadn't realized it.
[Music]
So, if Machu Picchu wasn't the last
refuge of the
Incor, what was it?
[Music]
Today, Machu Picchu is believed to have
been built by the Incor during the
expansion of their empire in the mid
15th century, 75 years before the
Spanish arrived.
It was constructed as a royal estate and
served as a sacred and seasonal retreat
for the Inca rulers whenever the weather
was severe in their capital city
Kusco. Everyone now tends to the view
that it was built as a winter palace for
an Inca emperor, probably the greatest
of them all, Patchakouti. He could come
down with his retinue to Machu Picchu,
which has a much better climate, and
enjoy a fabulous resort type atmosphere.
It was a very exclusive place, which is
perhaps why there was no historical
record of it. It was a place where an
emperor could build his own fantasy
creation in the clouds. A sort of Las
Vegas, if you like, which if it didn't
have neon billboards, did have this
showoff architecture that only an
emperor could afford.
Scholars now believe Machu Picchu was
abandoned by the Incor before the
Spanish arrived in Peru in 1532.
Why they left their great winter
retreat, however, remains a
[Music]
mystery. So, where does that leave Hyram
Bingham today?
Was he just an adventurer who allowed
his prejudice and emotions to get the
better of
him? Most would regard that as too
harsh. To many explorers, he remains a
hero. Harum Bingham was the perfect man
of the moment. Here was a character with
a dream, someone who wished to find
treasure, and that is exactly what he
did.
He made the discovery both of Machu
Picchu and of other very important Inca
sites. I think in many ways he is a bit
of a hero and uh rather more of a hero
perhaps than Indiana Jones because he's
real. He was the first scientific
discoverer, the man who took the time,
brought money to the enterprise, who
exposed Machu Picchu to the world,
literally peeling back that forest and
showing us what an extraordinary place
it was.
I was so happy that he had had the
energy and the curiosity and the drive
to find Machu Picchu, to rediscover it,
to write about it, to make it famous to
the whole world so other people could
come and really enjoy it.
Despite being wrong about Vilabomba and
Machu Picchu, Hyram Bingham is still
regarded as one of the greatest
explorers of his age. After all, perhaps
he found one of the great wonders of the
modern
world. The sanctuary was lost for
centuries because this ridge is in the
most inaccessible corner of the most
inaccessible section of the central
Andes. No part of the highlands of Peru
is better defended by natural bull
works. A stupendous canyon whose rock is
granite and whose precipaces are
frequently 1,000 ft sheer.
Yet here in a remote part of the canyon,
on a narrow ridge flanked by tremendous
precipaces, a highly civilized people,
artistic, inventive, wellorganized, and
capable of sustained endeavor at some
time in the distant past, built
themselves a sanctuary for the worship
of the sun.
[Music]
[Music]
Heat. Heat.
[Music]

Key Vocabulary

Start Practicing
Vocabulary Meanings

heat

/hiːt/

A2
  • noun
  • - the quality of being hot or warm

history

/ˈhɪstəri/

A2
  • noun
  • - the study of past events

century

/ˈsentʃəri/

B1
  • noun
  • - a period of 100 years

great

/ɡreɪt/

A1
  • adjective
  • - of an extent, amount, or intensity considerably above the normal or average.

Empire

/ˈempaɪər/

B2
  • noun
  • - an extensive group of states or countries under a single supreme authority, formerly especially an emperor or empress.

explorer

/ɪkˈsplɔːrər/

B1
  • noun
  • - a person who explores a new territory or area

mission

/ˈmɪʃən/

B1
  • noun
  • - an important assignment carried out for a particular purpose

city

/ˈsɪti/

A1
  • noun
  • - a large town

refuge

/ˈrefjuːdʒ/

B2
  • noun
  • - a place providing shelter or protection from danger

mountain

/ˈmaʊntən/

A1
  • noun
  • - a large natural elevation of the earth's surface rising abruptly from the surrounding level; a large hill.

history

/ˈhɪstəri/

A2
  • noun
  • - the study of past events

valley

/ˈvæli/

A2
  • noun
  • - a low area of land between hills or mountains, typically with a river or stream flowing through it.

journey

/ˈdʒɜːrni/

A2
  • noun
  • - an act of travelling from one place to another

amazing

/əˈmeɪzɪŋ/

B1
  • adjective
  • - causing great surprise or wonder; astonishing.

jungle

/ˈdʒʌŋɡəl/

A2
  • noun
  • - a dense forest, especially in the tropics.

capital

/ˈkæpɪtl/

B1
  • noun
  • - the most important city or town of a country or region, usually its seat of government and administrative centre.
  • adjective
  • - denoting or relating to the capital city of a country or region

war

/wɔːr/

A2
  • noun
  • - a state of armed conflict between different countries or different groups within a country.

people

/ˈpiːpl/

A1
  • noun
  • - human beings in general or considered collectively.

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