[English]
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Heat. Heat.
History tells that in the 16th century,
the great Inca Empire fled from the
ferocious onslaught of Spanish
concistadors. Somewhere deep inside the
jungles of Peru, the Incas built a last
stronghold. There they made their final
stand against their ruthless enemy.
But with their death, the memory of
where this last refuge was
disappeared. But one man was determined
to find
it. An American explorer named Hyram
Bingham. He was Indiana Jones. He was
6'4. He looked like a Hollywood idol. He
was a man obsessed with this mission.
Bingham was a tough tough explorer. No
Andian mountain seems to have been too
high for him. No jungle too dense. And
he did find an extraordinary Inca
city. Machu
Picchu. It was hailed as the lost city
in the
clouds. A spiritual Inca refuge perching
high on top of a skyscraping mountain.
Bingham was convinced he had found the
long-lost city of the Incas.
their final refuge from the Spanish
conquest. But all was not as it
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seemed. In 1911, there was a young
scholar specializing in modern Latin
American history at Yale University,
USA.
Hyram Bingham. But he was no
impoverished academic. Bingham was 36
years old, married to Alfredo Mitchell,
an ays to the Tiffany Diamond
Empire. They had six young sons and
lived in a 30- room mansion on top of a
hill. He was a man who seemed to have
all the comforts of life.
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But Bingham was restless and driven.
Haram Bingham had a really compulsive
need to become famous and I think that's
because of his family. He was Haron
Bingham III and I think that's
incredibly important because his
grandfather Haron Bingham the first he
was a very powerful impressive
missionary character and so was his
father Haron Bingham I so there's this
legacy this weight on his shoulders that
he had to prove himself or or do
something with his life at the very
least what that something could be he
had absolutely no idea.
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Yeah. To secure a permanent position at
Yale University. Bingham went to Peru in
1909 to study the Spanish trade routes
between Buenazeres and Lemur.
During the journey, he was invited by
his guide to see an ancient Inca site
high up in the Andes
Mountains. It was an event that would
change his
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life. It was my first introduction to
prehistoric American history. I agreed
not knowing that it was going to lead me
into a fascinating
field. Bingham is taken to this remote
incaruin called Chi Cural uh which means
cradle of gold and is immediately struck
by the romance of the position.
The Inca ruins lay 10,000 ft above sea
level and the climb was astounding with
breathtaking views of the distant
snowcapped mountains and the roar of the
Apuramac River below. It was also
exhilarating. At times the trail was so
steep that it was easier to go on all
fours than to attempt to walk erect.
Most of the time we were hanging on to
the side of the mountain almost by our
eyelids.
On the way up they saw amazing sights,
including a huge condor that sailed down
to take a look at
them. We could not only see his cruel
beak and great talons, but even the
whites of his eyes. It was an awe
inspiring moment.
Bingham was a tough tough explorer. No
Andian mountain seems to have been too
high for him. No jungle too
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dense. Eventually they reached the Inca
ruins on the flattened peak.
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For Bingham, it was a magical
experience. Choke Karau was built in the
15th century and was believed to be a
sacred Inca dwelling and one of their
frontier
fortresses. It was designed to defend
the approaches to their great capital
city, Kusco.
Bingham wrote to his wife Alfreda to
tell her it was the most interesting
place he had ever
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seen. He's amazingly impressed by the
remains of Inca architecture because
he'd never known about this before. He'd
heard of the Incas, but he didn't know
that what they'd achieved was quite as
impressive as this. And people see this
as sort of epiphany. You know, this
really changes the direction of his
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life. Till now, Bingham's knowledge of
South American history was limited to
the Spanish colonial days, and he knew
very little about the
Incor. As he looked out to the distant
mountains, Bingham was keen to find out
more about them.
Who were these people who built this
extraordinary place? What was their
story? Those snowcapped peaks in an
unknown and unexplored part of Peru
fascinated me greatly. They tempted me
to go see what lay beyond. And he
thought of his line from
Kipling. Something hidden. Go and find
it. go and look behind the ranges.
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You get this feeling that this this
worked on him on his imagination that
somewhere just beyond the range was a
city, a world, a reputation to be found.
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Back in the Yale library, Bingham began
researching the Inca history. He opened
the pages of the Spanish Chronicles, a
key source on Spain's golden age of
discovery, conquest, and colonization of
the
Americas. He began reading more about
the Incas. And of course, even as a
non-academic, the story of the
concistadors and the Incor is incredibly
exciting.
Bingham learned how from the early 13th
century to the middle to late 16th
century, the Incas were the most
powerful empire in the
Americas. Their domain stretched over
2,000 m from modern-day Chile to the
Amazon. But then came
catastrophe. In 1532, the Spanish
concistadors, headed by their ruthless
leader, Francisco Pizarro, entered the
Inca heartland. He was hellbent on their
destruction. Over the next 40 years, the
Spaniards drove the Indians from their
cities and slaughtered them in their
thousands. Bingham really is intrigued
by the history of the last Incards and
what they done after the Spaniards
arrived.
Bingham's eyes were drawn to an account
where a young Inca emperor named Mango
had led his people as they fled their
capital city Kusco in
1536. Mano managed to escape the Spanish
and created a new Inca capital called
Vitkos 10,000 ft above sea level
somewhere in the remote mountainous
region of the Vilka Bamba Valley.
But the Spanish concistadors were in hot
pursuit and the Incor fled again. This
time the chronicle said they went down
from their mountain homes into the
Amazon
lowland. There, protected by a dense
jungle in the largest rainforest in the
world, they built a new city called Vil
Kabamba.
And it was here that the Incor made
their last
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stand. But it was all to no
avail. In
1572, the Spaniards finally defeated the
Incor. And so with their death, their
last refuge, Vilabamba, disappeared from
history.
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Bingham was transfixed by the story of
Vilabamba. But for all the references of
the city, there was one vital clue
missing. Nobody, as far as he could see,
knew where it was. This appealed to
Bingham as a puzzle he could solve
himself.
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Bingham tried to work out where
Vilabamba could
be. The Spanish Chronicles said it lay
30 m and two long days journey from
Vidcos, but he had no idea even where
Vitkos
was. Continuing his studies, he found
another
clue. The chronicle said that Vitkos was
100 mi northwest of Kusco along the
Urabamba Valley in the Andes mountain
range. Bingham knew where Kusco was. He
had visited it on his last trip to South
America. But if no one knew where Vitkos
was, how would he know when he'd reached
it?
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There was a further clue in the Spanish
accounts. They said that there was a
sacred area with a large white rock
close by the city. So if Bingham could
locate the white rock, he would know he
had found Vitkos.
Now Bingham realized that if he could
find Vitkos then two days beyond it he
should be able to find Vil
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Kabamba. This Bingham thought would be
how he could make his name. He would
lead an expedition to find the Inca's
last refuge, Vil Kabamba.
Bingham began to form his team.
He needed to be funded to take an
expedition down there. Particularly
then, it was an expensive
business. The first thing Bingham did
was approach a number of
corporations. Businesses specializing in
America's outdoor country pursuits
offered their support.
Abbercrombie and Fitch supplied Bingham
with an explorer's outfit.
He managed to get Winchester to give him
a rifle, Kodak to give a camera, and
then he turned to his classmates.
Bingham estimated that he would need six
expedition members, and that each one
would require $1,800 to cover their
travel and food expenses.
One former classmate heard about his
plans and offered him $1,800 if he would
take a Yale geologist with
him. Bingham snapped up the
offer. Others came forward. One was a
topographer, another a mountain climbing
engineer. Eventually, Bingham got
together a multid-disciplinary team.
So, he's got a doctor, a naturalist,
geologist, a couple of topographers. So,
it's a pretty good, well-rounded,
versatile
team. To pay his own way, Bingham
promised to write four articles for the
fashionable Harper's magazine. But he
was still $1,800 short.
Only now did he turn to the one source
he could rely on, his wife Alfreda, to
tap the Tiffany
fortune. She
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agreed. Bingham's party left New York
for Peru on the 8th of June, 1911.
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Their destination, the former Inca
capital city,
Cusco. This, Bingham knew, lay near the
Urabamba Valley in the Andes mountain
range and would be his starting off
point.
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Bingham's expedition arrived in Kusco on
the 2nd of July
1911. His aim was to first locate the
sacred white rock at Vitkos, then to
make his way down from the mountains
into the land Amazon jungle to search
for Vela Bambber.
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Bingham and his best friend, a
naturalist named Harry Foot, set out on
the morning of the 19th of July 1911 on
their quest for where they believed Vil
Kabamba could
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be. The rest of the party were
dispatched to carry out geological and
mapping surveys of the Andes. So they
head off across the the high altitude
lands, then descend into the Urubamba
Valley itself. The Urubamba is the
famous sacred valley of the Incas and
follow the the river along sort of
heading generally in the direction
northwest.
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Bingham kept a meticulous diary of his
expedition. Today it is regarded as one
of the greatest firstirhand accounts in
the history of exploration.
I had entered the marvelous canyon of
the Uru Bamba. Here the river runs
through gigantic mountains of granite. I
know of nowhere in the world that can
compare with it. Bingham writes in the
most compulsive way. Here's someone with
academic authority and yet he knows how
to tell a good story.
Not only does it have great snow peaks
looming above the clouds more than 2
miles overhead, it also has in striking
contrast orchids and tree ferns and the
mysterious witchery of the jungle.
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He paints pictures with words and not
just of visual things, but of the heart,
you know, the spirit, what you're
feeling.
One is drawn irresistibly onward by ever
recurring surprises through a deepened
winding gorge, turning and twisting past
overhanging cliffs of incredible height.
He's still got a little way to go before
he gets to this area where he thinks
he's going to find Vikos, the old Inca
capital. Uh so he's sort of working
himself in, working the team in.
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On the evening of the 23rd of July 1911,
after a 70-mile journey from Kusco and
3/4 of the way to where Vitkos is said
to be, Bingham and Foot set up camp for
the night in a canyon surrounded by
steep mountains.
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They camp at a place called Mandor
Pamper and they meet a man there called
Melchure Artiaga and he questions him.
He says, "You know, are there are there
ruins around here?" Artiaga told Bingham
there were some fine ones on top of the
opposite mountain called Huena Pichu and
also on a ridge called Machu Picchu or
Old Peak.
people in Peru were always telling him
that uh if he gave them a bit of money
they could lead him to a ruin and there
was a little bit of sort of won't get
fooled again feeling in his team. They
had heard ruins were around many times
and they'd gone it would be one little
house or couple of things. And this is
where I think we have to give a lot of
credit to Bingham because lesser men
would have said, "Oh, for God's sake,
you know, there's not supposed to be
anything up that hill. There's nothing
in the history books. Um, this is just a
wild goose chase. Bingham noted the
ruins names in his pocket diary and
arranged for Artiaga to take him there
the following day.
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The morning of the 24th of July, 1911,
dawned with a cold
rain. Bingham prepared for his climb up
Machu
Picchu. His best friend, Harry Foot,
didn't fancy the wet
conditions. The naturalist said there
were more butterflies near the river.
Anyway, it was my job to
investigate. Artyaga shivered. He said
it was too hard to climb for such a wet
day. But when he found out that I was
willing to pay him three or four times
the ordinary daily wage, he finally
agreed to go.
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Artyaga and Bingham left the camp at
10:00
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a.m. After a walk of about 3/4 of an
hour, Artyaga left the main road and
plunged down through the bank of the
river. Here there was a primitive bridge
which crossed the roaring
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rapids. It was obvious that no one could
live for an instant in the icy cold
rapids but would immediately be dashed
to pieces against the rocks. He said, "I
admit freely I was on my hands and knees
going really, really slowly across and
all I could think of was, I hope the
water doesn't go up because it'll just
take the bridge
away." After the river came the
mountain. Leaving the stream, we now
struggled up the bank through dense
jungle.
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and in a few minutes reached the bottom
of a very precipitous
slope. For an hour and 20 minutes, we
had a hard climb.
A good part of the distance we went on
all fours, sometimes holding on by our
fingernails.
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Bingham was now climbing at nearly 8,000
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ft. Bingham was going up through very
difficult cloud
forest. Conditions were humid. It was
hard work.
Shortly afternoon, just as we were
completely exhausted, we reached several
good-natured Indians who were pleasantly
surprised by our unexpected
arrival. It seemed that these Indians
had chosen this eagle's nest for their
home.
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A small boy named Pablo Riche was sent
on to guide Bingham around the
ruins. He's led by this little boy
around a corner and he sees something
quite extraordinary.
Hardly had we left and rounded the
promonry. Then we were confronted with
an unexpected
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sight. A great flight of beautifully
constructed stonefaced terraces. perhaps
a hundred of them, each hundreds of feet
long and 10 feet high. They had recently
been rescued from the jungle by the
Indians. It is an amazingly evocative
description of firstly going through
what were lovely Inca terraces, Bing
Bingham says, and then slowly things
build.
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From the cleared stonework, he was
introduced to another spectacular
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site. Suddenly, without warning, under a
huge overhanging ledge, the boy showed
me a cave beautifully lined with the
finest cut stone.
And then he's going from one wonder to
another.
It had evidently been a royal mosselum.
On top of this particular ledge was a
semi-ircular building whose outer wall
gently sloping and slightly curved or a
striking resemblance to the famous
temple of the sun in Kusco. Clearly it
was the work of a master artist. Then
there's the the the temple with the
rounded wall and then cumulatively the
overall effect.
Bingham was stunned by its magnificence
and realized that this wasn't just some
little Inca settlement he has come to
see. It seemed like an unbelievable
dream.
Dimly, I began to realize that this wall
and its adjoining semic-ircular temple
over the cave were as fine as the finest
stonework in the
world. It fairly took my breath away.
What could this place be? Why had no one
given us any idea of it?
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Surprise followed surprise in
bewildering succession. Suddenly, we
found ourselves standing in front of the
ruins of two of the finest and most
interesting structures in ancient
America.
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There are cyclopian stones, as he calls
them. Stones the height of a human, but
beautifully worked with very, very fine
granite. On the east side of the plaza
was another amazing structure. The ruins
of a temple containing three great
windows looking out over the canyon to
the rising sun. Like its neighbor, it is
unique among Inca ruins.
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Bingham had made an extraordinary
discovery. It seemed almost too good to
be
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true. Would anyone believe what I had
found? Fortunately, in this land where
accuracy in reporting what one has seen
is not a prevailing characteristic of
travelers, I had a good camera and the
sun was shining.
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I know that you had a very special Kodak
camera that was made for traveling in
rugged territory and the negatives are
huge. So the resolution, you know, the
the detail is really fantastic.
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But one question puzzled
Bingham. Where was he? Now Bingham was
not really looking for a ruin in this
part of the world. So he couldn't make
sense of what he'd found.
Machu Picchu laid 70 mi from Kusco. So,
it couldn't be Vitkos, which was said to
be a 100 miles from Kusco. And it
couldn't be the Inca's last refuge,
Vilabamba, because that was said to be
30 mi on from VidCos, down on the jungle
plains. So, what was this astonishing
place?
Suddenly, Bingham's eye focused on some
charcoal graffiti on a rock of the
three- windowed
temple.
Learaga,
1902. His blood ran cold.
Bingham was a man who wanted to make a
name for himself and he was pulled up
short. He suddenly saw this graffiti.
Had some scholar got there
first. Bingham wrote the name Lizaraga
1902 in his diary and prayed it wasn't
another
explorer. Maybe he'd been picked to the
post. Maybe this wasn't really a
discovery at all.
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Deeply worried, Bingham made his way
back down the
mountain. He hardly mentioned the Machu
Picchu ruins when he returned to the
campsite below.
In fact, his best friend Harry Foot
wrote in his diary, "No special things
to
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note." Bingham discreetly asked Artyaga
about the Lizaraga 1902
graffiti. Artyaga told Bingham,
"Augustine Lizaraga is the discoverer of
Machu Picchu. He lives at San Miguel
Bridge just downstream of your
campsite." And at that point Aringa must
have sighed and thought that is that and
he actually writes it in his diary. Lisa
Raga is the
discoverer and his heart must have
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sunk. Bingham was horrified and set off
to find the mysterious Lizaraga.
But when he got to San Miguel Bridge,
Augustine Lzaraga was not at home. So
Bingham spoke to his brother
Angel. Angel told him that the ruins
were known in the valley and parts of it
were cultivated by farmers. His brother
was one of those
farmers. Bingham relaxed. Lizar wasn't a
rival academic after all.
He was just a local Peruvian
peasant. Bingham's discovery of Machu
Picchu was
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secure. The very next day, he set off on
another long journey to search for the
last refuge of the Incoraba.
But first, he had to locate the white
rock at
VidCos. Bingham followed the information
detailed in the Spanish Chronicles he
had read back at Yale. He asked every
local they passed if they knew the
whereabouts of any ruins in the area and
paid local guides to lead him onwards.
He carries on down the valley into even
more uncharted territory. He's put the
whole thing of Machu Picchu to one side.
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15 days after encountering the ruins of
Machu Picchu, Bingham came across the
sacred white rock mentioned in the
Chronicles as being close to the Inca's
capital city,
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Vitkos. It was late on the afternoon of
August 9th, 1911, when I first saw this
remarkable shrine.
We could now be fairly sure that we had
located one of Mango's capitals, Vitkas.
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If Bingham had found the ruins of the
former Inca city
Vitkos, it meant that he had to be on
the right track and close to completing
his
objective, finding their last refuge,
Velabamba. The Chronicle said it was a
long two-day journey from
Vidcos. By now, Bingham's blood is up. I
mean he realized that these ruins are
topping over like nine pins you know
he's found Machu Picchu he's found Vikos
and there's one final place he wants to
find which is a place where the Inca
emperor and the exiles escaped to if the
Spanish ever came looking for
them. Bingham came down from the
mountains into the huge land jungles of
the
Amazon. This was now a very different
world to the ethereal mountaintops of
Machu
Picchu. It was a place that even the
local Peruvians feared, like the Spanish
concistadors before them.
One of our informants said the Inca city
was called Espiritu Pampa or the plane
of the ghosts to be reached only by a
hard trail passable for barefooted
savages, but scarcely available for us
unless we chose to go on our hands and
knees.
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Finally, after several days traveling,
Bingham found beneath the thick twines
of a rainforest jungle evidence of some
ruins. To his excitement, the locals
called it Espiru Pampa. Even better,
they also called it Vila
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Bambber. Surely Bingham had found the
last refuge of the
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Incor. But as he set to work, he came
across something very puzzling.
The few buildings he had found were
clearly Inca, but their stonework was
rough and
inferior. Bingham searched for more
extensive
ruins, but failed to find anything
substantial. Bingham wrote in his diary,
"After several days digging, ruins well
scattered. Long hard job to clear ruins.
Hardly
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worthwhile. The more Bingham dug, the
more he became convinced that the site
just wasn't special enough to
be. But if this wasn't the place where
the Incor had their last refuge, then
where was it?
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Slowly Bingham started to reconsider the
evidence. He went back to the Spanish
chronicles. They told him that Vilabamba
was the largest city in the province.
Machu Picchu was clearly much bigger
than anything he had found in the
jungle. Then there was the puzzling
issue of the inferior
architecture. Nothing he saw in the
Amazon matched the finely cut stone at
Machu
Picchu. Bingham also wondered about
something else. Would the Incor, who are
highland people, have really made a home
down in the flatland
jungle? It does not seem reasonable that
such people would have cared to live in
the hot valley of Esperu Pampa. These
Inca ruins are unique in lying so low in
the Amazon jungle. The difference in
climate is as great as that between
Scotland and Egypt.
Furthermore, they could have found the
seclusion and safety which they craved
just as well in several other parts of
the province, particularly at Machu
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Picchu. Now he began focusing on another
issue.
The chronicle stated that the city of
Vlabamba laid two days march from
Vitkos. So did Machu Picchu, albeit in a
different
direction. Machu Picchu was roughly 2
days from Bitco and he did it. He walked
from Bitkos across back to Machu Picchu
directly.
An idea slowly began to dawn on him.
Could his discovery Machu Picchu be the
real Vil
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Kabamba? Bingham returned to America at
the end of 1911, determined to prove his
case.
After Bingham discovered Machu Picchu in
1911, there was very little publicity.
Tiny mentions in New York Times, in the
geographical magazine in London, but
nothing
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much. Bingham revisited Machu Picchu in
1912, increasingly convinced it was
Vilabamba, the last refuge of the Incas.
He was now head of a major excavation
and clearing program funded by Yale and
the National Geographic
Society. Looking over the tangled city,
Bingham wrote in his
diary. Matu Pichu ruins as fine as ever.
Very impressive.
The material Bingham produced was so
impressive that the National Geographic
devoted an entire issue of their
magazine to his discovery.
The owner of National Geographic
magazine said, "Uh, we're going to make
Machu Peach a star. And moreover, uh,
Mr. Bingham, we're going to make you a
star as well.
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In April 1913, with the cover title In
the Wonderland of Peru, National
Geographic published in pictures and
text, Bingham's amazing account of his
finding of Machu
Picchu. The news was a global sensation.
The public needed little convincing.
Finally, it became accepted that Machu
Picchu was Vil Kabamba, the Inca's final
refuge, and Hyram Bingham's name was
made.
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Haram Bingham would go down in history
as one of the all-time great explorers.
But there is an irony in this tale.
Machu Picchu was an amazing Inca
site. However, modern scholars now
believe that the ruins at a spiritu
which Bingham had dismissed in 1911 are
far grander and larger than he had
realized.
In 1964, some 50 years after Bingham had
been there, an American called Jean
Seavoi, an adventurer and archaeologist,
went down to a spiritu pamper and did a
much more thorough clearing of the site
and established really beyond doubt that
that was indeed the proper last refuge
of the Incas, which I think all
archaeologists would agree today.
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Bingham's initial detective work that
had led him to Espiritu Pampa had been
on the right trail after
all. He had found the real Vilaba. He
just hadn't realized it.
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So, if Machu Picchu wasn't the last
refuge of the
Incor, what was it?
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Today, Machu Picchu is believed to have
been built by the Incor during the
expansion of their empire in the mid
15th century, 75 years before the
Spanish arrived.
It was constructed as a royal estate and
served as a sacred and seasonal retreat
for the Inca rulers whenever the weather
was severe in their capital city
Kusco. Everyone now tends to the view
that it was built as a winter palace for
an Inca emperor, probably the greatest
of them all, Patchakouti. He could come
down with his retinue to Machu Picchu,
which has a much better climate, and
enjoy a fabulous resort type atmosphere.
It was a very exclusive place, which is
perhaps why there was no historical
record of it. It was a place where an
emperor could build his own fantasy
creation in the clouds. A sort of Las
Vegas, if you like, which if it didn't
have neon billboards, did have this
showoff architecture that only an
emperor could afford.
Scholars now believe Machu Picchu was
abandoned by the Incor before the
Spanish arrived in Peru in 1532.
Why they left their great winter
retreat, however, remains a
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mystery. So, where does that leave Hyram
Bingham today?
Was he just an adventurer who allowed
his prejudice and emotions to get the
better of
him? Most would regard that as too
harsh. To many explorers, he remains a
hero. Harum Bingham was the perfect man
of the moment. Here was a character with
a dream, someone who wished to find
treasure, and that is exactly what he
did.
He made the discovery both of Machu
Picchu and of other very important Inca
sites. I think in many ways he is a bit
of a hero and uh rather more of a hero
perhaps than Indiana Jones because he's
real. He was the first scientific
discoverer, the man who took the time,
brought money to the enterprise, who
exposed Machu Picchu to the world,
literally peeling back that forest and
showing us what an extraordinary place
it was.
I was so happy that he had had the
energy and the curiosity and the drive
to find Machu Picchu, to rediscover it,
to write about it, to make it famous to
the whole world so other people could
come and really enjoy it.
Despite being wrong about Vilabomba and
Machu Picchu, Hyram Bingham is still
regarded as one of the greatest
explorers of his age. After all, perhaps
he found one of the great wonders of the
modern
world. The sanctuary was lost for
centuries because this ridge is in the
most inaccessible corner of the most
inaccessible section of the central
Andes. No part of the highlands of Peru
is better defended by natural bull
works. A stupendous canyon whose rock is
granite and whose precipaces are
frequently 1,000 ft sheer.
Yet here in a remote part of the canyon,
on a narrow ridge flanked by tremendous
precipaces, a highly civilized people,
artistic, inventive, wellorganized, and
capable of sustained endeavor at some
time in the distant past, built
themselves a sanctuary for the worship
of the sun.
[Music]
[Music]
Heat. Heat.
[Music]