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In a time-lapse video, it looks like a monster coming alive. 00:07
For a moment, it sits there innocuously. 00:10
Then, ripples move across its surface. 00:13
It bulges outwards, bursting with weird boils. 00:16
It triples in volume. 00:19
Its color darkens ominously, and its surface hardens 00:21
into an alien topography of peaks and craters. 00:24
Then, the kitchen timer dings. 00:28
Your cookie is ready. 00:30
What happened inside that oven? 00:32
Don't let the apron deceive you! 00:33
Bakers are mad scientists. 00:35
When you slide the pan into the oven, 00:38
you're setting off a series of chemical reactions 00:40
that transform one substance, dough, into another, cookies. 00:42
When the dough reaches 92 degrees Fahrenheit, 00:47
the butter inside melts, 00:50
causing the dough to start spreading out. 00:51
Butter is an emulsion, 00:54
or mixture of two substances 00:55
that don't want to stay together, 00:57
in this case, water and fat, 00:59
along with some dairy solids that help hold them together. 01:01
As the butter melts, its trapped water is released. 01:04
And as the cookie gets hotter, the water expands into steam. 01:07
It pushes against the dough from the inside, 01:10
trying to escape through the cookie walls 01:13
like Ridley Scott's chest-bursting alien. 01:15
Your eggs may have been home to squirming salmonella bacteria. 01:19
An estimated 142,000 Americans are infected this way each year. 01:22
Though salmonella can live for weeks outside a living body 01:27
and even survive freezing, 01:30
136 degrees is too hot for them. 01:31
When your dough reaches that temperature, they die off. 01:35
You'll live to test your fate with a bite of raw dough 01:38
you sneak from your next batch. 01:41
At 144 degrees, changes begin in the proteins, 01:43
which come mostly from the eggs in your dough. 01:47
Eggs are composed of dozens of different kinds of proteins, 01:49
each sensitive to a different temperature. 01:52
In an egg fresh from the hen, 01:55
these proteins look like coiled up balls of string. 01:56
When they're exposed to heat energy, 01:59
the protein strings unfold and get tangled up with their neighbors. 02:01
This linked structure 02:05
makes the runny egg nearly solid, 02:07
giving substance to squishy dough. 02:09
Water boils away at 212 degrees, 02:11
so like mud baking in the sun, 02:14
your cookie gets dried out and it stiffens. 02:16
Cracks spread across its surface. 02:19
The steam that was bubbling inside evaporates, 02:21
leaving behind airy pockets that make the cookie light and flaky. 02:24
Helping this along is your leavening agent, 02:27
sodium bicarbonate, 02:29
or baking soda. 02:31
The sodium bicarbonate reacts with acids in the dough 02:32
to create carbon dioxide gas, which makes airy pockets in your cookie. 02:35
Now, it's nearly ready for a refreshing dunk 02:40
in a cool glass of milk. 02:42
One of science's tastiest reactions 02:44
occurs at 310 degrees. 02:47
This is the temperature for Maillard reactions. 02:49
Maillard reactions result 02:52
when proteins and sugars break down and rearrange themselves, 02:54
forming ring-like structures, 02:57
which reflect light in a way 02:59
that gives foods like Thanksgiving turkey 03:00
and hamburgers 03:02
their distinctive, rich brown color. 03:03
As this reaction occurs, 03:06
it produces a range of flavor and aroma compounds, 03:08
which also react with each other, 03:11
forming even more complex tastes and smells. 03:12
Caramelization is the last reaction 03:16
to take place inside your cookie. 03:18
Caramelization is what happens 03:20
when sugar molecules break down under high heat, 03:22
forming the sweet, nutty, 03:25
and slightly bitter flavor compounds that define, well, caramel. 03:27
And, in fact, if your recipe calls for a 350 degree oven, 03:32
it'll never happen, 03:35
since caramelization starts at 356 degrees. 03:37
If your ideal cookie is barely browned, 03:40
like a Northeasterner on a beach vacation, 03:43
you could have set your oven to 310 degrees. 03:45
If you like your cookies to have a nice tan, 03:48
crank up the heat. 03:50
Caramelization continues up to 390 degrees. 03:51
And here's another trick: 03:55
you don't need that kitchen timer; 03:56
your nose is a sensitive scientific instrument. 03:58
When you smell the nutty, toasty aromas 04:01
of the Maillard reaction and caramelization, 04:04
your cookies are ready. 04:07
Grab your glass of milk, 04:08
put your feet up, 04:09
and reflect that science can be pretty sweet. 04:10

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[中文]
在延时摄影中,它看起来就像一个苏醒的怪物。
起初,它静静地躺在那里,毫无威胁。
接着,它的表面泛起阵波纹。
它开始向外膨胀,冒出怪异的气泡。
它的体积膨胀了三倍。
它的颜色变得阴暗不祥,表面开始变硬,
形成了像外星地貌般崎岖的起伏和凹坑。
接着,厨房的定时器响了。
你的饼干烤好了。
烤箱里到底发生了什么?
别被围裙给骗了!
烘焙师其实是疯狂的科学家。
当你把烤盘推入烤箱的那一刻,
你就引发了一连串的化学反应,
将一种物质——面团,转化为另一种物质——饼干。
当面团温度达到华氏 92 度(约摄氏 33 度)时,
里面的黄油开始融化,
导致面团开始向外摊平。
黄油是一种乳化剂,
也就是两种本不相融的物质的混合物,
在这里,它们是水和脂肪,
还有一些帮助它们融合在一起的乳固体。
随着黄油融化,其中锁住的水分被释放出来。
随着饼干温度上升,水分受热膨胀成蒸汽。
它从内部推挤面团,
试图穿透饼干表面逃逸出来,
就像电影《异形》中破胸而出的外星生物一样。
你用的鸡蛋里可能曾含有活跃的沙门氏菌。
据估计,每年有 14.2 万美国人因此受到感染。
虽然沙门氏菌在体外能存活数周,
甚至能经受住冰冻,
但华氏 136 度(约摄氏 58 度)的高温它们可受不了。
当面团达到这个温度时,细菌就被消灭了。
这样,你在下次做饼干时,
就能安全地偷尝一口生面团,而不用担心生病了。
当温度达到 144 度(约摄氏 62 度)时,蛋白质开始发生变化,
这些蛋白质主要来自面团中的鸡蛋。
鸡蛋由几十种不同的蛋白质组成,
每种蛋白质对温度的敏感度都不同。
在刚从母鸡那生出来的鲜蛋中,
这些蛋白质看起来就像缠绕在一起的线球。
当它们受到热能作用时,
这些蛋白质链就会展开,并与相邻的蛋白质缠绕在一起。
这种网状结构
让流动的蛋液变得几乎凝固,
从而给黏软的面团提供了支撑。
水在华氏 212 度(摄氏 100 度)时沸腾,
所以就像在烈日下曝晒的泥土一样,
你的饼干水分被蒸干并开始变硬。
它的表面开始出现裂纹。
在内部起泡的蒸汽蒸发掉了,
留下了蓬松的气孔,使饼干变得轻盈酥脆。
在这个过程中,起辅助作用的是你的膨松剂——
碳酸氢钠,
也就是小苏打。
碳酸氢钠与面团中的酸性物质反应,
产生二氧化碳气体,从而在饼干中形成气孔。
现在,它已经准备好浸入冰凉的牛奶中享用了。
科学界最美味的反应之一
发生在华氏 310 度(约摄氏 154 度)。
这是发生美拉德反应的温度。
美拉德反应是
蛋白质和糖类分解并重新排列组合的结果,
它们形成了环状结构,
这些结构反射光线的方式,
赋予了感恩节烤火鸡
和汉堡肉饼
独特的、诱人的深褐色。
随着这个反应的进行,
它会产生一系列的风味和香气化合物,
这些化合物又会互相反应,
形成更加复杂、层次丰富的味道和香气。
焦糖化是饼干内部发生的最后一个反应。
焦糖化是指
糖分子在高温下分解,
形成甜美、带坚果香、
又微带苦味的复杂风味,这就是焦糖的标志性味道。
事实上,如果你的食谱要求烤箱温度为 350 度,
焦糖化反应就不会发生,
因为焦糖化需要从华氏 356 度(约摄氏 180 度)才开始。
如果你理想中的饼干只是微微上色,
就像去海滩度假的北方人那样,
你可以把烤箱设为 310 度。
如果你喜欢饼干呈现出漂亮的古铜色,
那就把温度调高。
焦糖化反应最高可在 390 度(约摄氏 199 度)下持续进行。
这里还有一个小窍门:
你其实不需要厨房定时器;
你的鼻子就是灵敏的科学仪器。
当你闻到美拉德反应和焦糖化
所带来的坚果香和焦香时,
你的饼干就烤好了。
倒上一杯牛奶,
跷起二郎腿,
细细品味——科学也可以如此甜蜜。
Grab your glass of milk,
put your feet up,
and reflect that science can be pretty sweet.
[英语] Show

重点词汇

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词汇 含义

innocuously

ɪˈnɒkjuəsli

C2
  • adverb
  • - 无害地,不引起反感地

ominously

ˈɒmɪnəsli

C1
  • adverb
  • - 不祥地,不吉利地

topography

təˈpɒɡrəfi

C2
  • noun
  • - 地形,地貌

deceive

dɪˈsiːv

B2
  • verb
  • - 欺骗,误导

dough

dəʊ

B2
  • noun
  • - 面团

emulsion

ɪˈmʌlʃn

C2
  • noun
  • - 乳浊液,乳剂

squirming

ˈskwɜːmɪŋ

C2
  • adjective
  • - 蠕动的,扭动的

tangled

ˈtæŋɡld

B2
  • adjective
  • - 纠缠的,紊乱的

squishy

ˈskwɪʃi

C1
  • adjective
  • - 湿软的,易压扁的

evaporate

ɪˈvæpəreɪt

B2
  • verb
  • - 蒸发,消失

flaky

ˈfleɪki

C1
  • adjective
  • - 易成碎屑的,松脆的

leavening

ˈlevənɪŋ

C2
  • noun
  • - 发酵剂,膨松剂

dunk

dʌŋk

C1
  • noun
  • - 浸蘸
  • verb
  • - 蘸,浸

distinctive

dɪˈstɪŋktɪv

B2
  • adjective
  • - 独特的,有特色的

aroma

əˈrəʊmə

B2
  • noun
  • - 香味,芳香

molecule

ˈmɒlɪkjuːl

B2
  • noun
  • - 分子

barely

ˈbeəli

B2
  • adverb
  • - 几乎不,仅仅

crank

kræŋk

C1
  • verb
  • - 调高,调大(温度或音量)

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